After a few kilometers of uphill and somewhat hasty uses of shade, I am in Foncebadón. My bed feels soft and the mountain air wafts smells of a nearby campfire into the room.

The best part is the shower. It’s a normal shower, all right, but positioned under a large ceiling window that turns the whole experience into an outdoor event without the exposure. I really didn’t want to leave the lukewarm water and cold mountain wind combination.

Now I am headed across the street to take an early (7:30 is very early in this part of the country) dinner at the vegetarian place and maybe suck down a glass of tinto di verano for dessert.

Tomorrow morning it’s an early rise again to see the sun come up at the Cruz de Ferro.

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